BUCA: IT TAKES A LICKING AND KEEPS ON TICKING

Buca di Beppo had a great run starting in the late 1990s and continuing into the post-9/11 era, when its combination of “immigrant Southern Italian” cooking, over-the-top portion sizes and wacky interiors made it one of the fastest-growing full-service chains in the industry. It was hugely popular with large groups, in part because its ordering scheme—platter-sized portions only, the better to ensure that food would be passed from customer to customer—was novel. The food was good, and a chef’

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