Philosophie Francaise

Think of French food —of croissants, wine and cheese, creamy sauces. Then, turn your mind to the so-called French Paradox that has fascinated Amercans. How do the French stay so fit —and healthy —while eating all that cream and butter?

The answer is in their lifestyle — plenty of walking, an emphasis on seasonal produce and a preference for small portions.

And, contrary to popular belief, cooking in the “French style ” is not hard, it ’s simply a matter of practice, practice, practice.

Today, the most successful “French ” chefs in America are those who continually hone classic culinary technique and judiciously incorporate local flavor while keeping healthfulness in mind. (See the cookbooks below for great sources of recipes, both classic and contemporary.) For example, Frank Stitt, a chef in Birminghan, AL, worked with both Alice Waters (of Chez Panisse fame) and Richard Olney, considered one of the great French chefs. Stitt combines Provencal flavor with southern influence in his four restaurants. Here Parmesan stone-ground grits meld with wild mushrooms, crouton and Red Eye gravy, the trout is served with brown butter, capers and Brabant potatoes (a signature southern recipe);and the salad consists of roasted beets, white bean purée and pecan pesto. It is an excellent example of American ingenuity and French culinary panache!

French Menu Theme Ideas
If in France. . . . . . In France, many young chefs are moving to the countryside and offering regular lunch customers (sound familiar?) a prix-fixe luncheon — déjeuner —menu. (This in turn spurs these customers to come back on weekend nights when these chefs flex a more creative upscale and expensive culinary muscle.) Offer a choice of two appetizers, two main dish entrees, cheese, dessert and, drink.

A French bistro, of course!
A menu is easily at hand with a look through any French cookbook —the hard part is picking just a few dishes to feature! Pipe in some French bistro music, add fresh flowers and perk up your lunch business.

Un Crêperie. As a breakfast and lunch special, consider a crêpe station. These delicate pancakes are very easy to make and hold up well. Envelope sweet —les crêpes sucrees (fruits, cheese, nuts, chocolate) or savory —les crêpes salées (cheese & spinach, shellfish, salmon fillings, add a light garnish or sauce, and voila, simple sophistication on a plate!

Celebrate Bastille Day, July 14th. This holiday, established in 1790, celebrates the establishment of the short-lived constitutional monarchy in France and what people of the time considered to be the happy conclusion of the French Revolution. It’s also a huge feast! Held on the first anniversary of the storming of the Bastille, offer a French-inspired picnic-themed luncheon menu and picnic box lunches for customers to enjoy outside —weather permitting!

 

In a French Kitchen
A trip to the bookstore yields a bounty of recipe resources. Here are just a few.
Classic:
Larousse Gastronomic
, by A. Escoffier, compiled by Prosper Montagne, 2001 (revised), Random House, $85. Since its first publication in 1938, this has been the French bible on culinary technique. It presents the hitory of foods, eating, and restaurants; cooking terms; techniques from elementary to advanced; a review of basic ingredients (buying, storing, and using them); biographies of important culinary figures; and recommendations for cooking nearly everything. The new edition, the first since 1988, expands the book’s scope to include the contemporary global table.

Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volumes One/Two, by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle and Simone Beck, Alfred A Knopf, Inc. , originally published in 1961 updated 2001, $40. Consider all of Julia Childs books!

The Dione Lucas Book of French Cooking, by
Dione Lucas and Marion Gorman, 1973, Little Brown & Co. , used from $5-$70.

Other classic authors and chefs to consider: Jacques Pépin, Richard Olney, Madeleine Kamman, Elizabeth David, and Roger Verge.

Contemporary:
The French Laundry Cookbook, by Thomas Keller, 2004, Workman Publishing Co. , $50 (Also check out Bouchon.) Anthony Bourdain’s Les Halles Cookbook, 2004, St. Martins Press, $34. 95.

Barefoot in Paris, by Ina Garten, 2004, Clarkson Potter Publishers, $35, to name a few.

 

French Pantry
Most ingredients used in French cooking, whether classic or contemporary, are easy to find. A few items, however, need some special attention in order to fully represent authentic French cooking traditions.

Bacon. The French favor fresh, unsalted and unsmoked bacon. For proper flavor in recipes that call for it, smoked bacon, more readily available here, should be blanched.

Butter, unsalted and clarified butter. Clarified butter burns less easily than whole butter and is used in roux, particlarly for fine sauces, and to enrich soups and other sauces. (To clarify butter;cut it into pieces and place in a saucepan over low to moderate heat. When it is melted, skim off the foam, and strain the clear yellow liquid into a bowl, leaving the milky residue in the bottom of the pan.)

Cheese, particulary Swiss (Gruyere, Emmenthaler)and Parmesan.

Cream. French cream is matured cream which has a nutty flavor. For recipes that call for créme fraîche —if you cannot find it —use American whipping cream. To make a similarly textured cream, thicken the whipping cream with some buttermilk, and it will taste quite like French cream (combine 1 tsp. buttermilk and 1 cup whipping cream, heat to 60-85 °F, set aside to thicken —up to 8 hours on a hot day, 24 to 36 hours at cool temperatures. Stir, cover and refrigerate).

Flour, Regular French flour is made from soft wheat (and unbleached), while most Amercian flour is made from hard wheat. Consider mixing three parts all-purpose flour with one part plain cake flour to achieve those flaky croissants or crusty breads.

Glaceed fruits and candied fruits, a must for desserts.

Herbs. The French favor fresh parsley, thyme, bay, tarragon, chervil and chives. Mediterranean France adds basil, fennel, oregano, sage and saffron to the mix. (Fines herbs is comprised of fresh parsley, chives, tarragon and chervil. Bouquet garni, the little pouch of herbs used to flavor soups, stews, sauces, braised meat and vegetables, is comprised of fresh parsley, thyme and bay leaf.)

Marrow. The fatty filling of beef leg bones, marrow is poached and used in sauces, garnitures and on canapés.

Oil. Classical French cooking almost exclusively uses odorless, tasteless vegetables oils for cooking. Shallots are prefered over onions for their delicate flavor and slight hint of garlic.

Truffles, the round, pungent wrinkled black fungi are dug up in France and Italy from December to the end of January.